Jeep 2.0: Definition

July 9th – 17th 2010. Location: Burlington, Vermont & Kahuku Hawaii. Jeep 2.0 - Definition. ('Project Scope' for you Project Management Types)

I'm on a business trip, spending the usual time in airplanes, airports & hotels. I can't get Jeep 2.0 off my mind. The irony of both Jeep 2.0 & Wife 2.0 both being upgrades over the original I find both quite humorous as well as more true than most people will realize.

With visions of Jeep 2.0 in my mind day & night, I've had the chance to spend quite a time writing down my thoughts on what it should be, and what parts are available. I did look around at possible Scrambler Projects, or donors. This is the path I went when my Jeep spit a piston into the oil pan. But after looking online at the usual places, I decided to use Jeep Therapy as the donor & get aftermarket parts when needed.

First & foremost, I've confirmed an aftermarket frame and steel body tub are both available. I won't do fiberglass (and don't need to) and after comparing the aluminum tubs to the steel ones, determined the steel replacement tub is a better choice for me. Having the "Jeep" name stamped in the sides and tailgate only make it better. After all, this is Jeep 2.0!

My donor 1996 Chevy Vortec 350 has been sitting so long I no longer trust it. Besides, the Vortec EFI system back then was part of Too Much Project. That's where my friend Scott did a better choice: he put the GM Vortec TBI manifold on top of a crate Vortec 350 & employed a simple TBI system from Affordable Fuel Injection. Simple, easy to implement. I could probably salvage my engine with some work, and pull the intake & ECU, and replace with the same 'Vortec TBI' system he did. But I have another choice now: the HT383E crate motor. If this is going to be the Jeep that I keep forever, more power for this larger rig can't hurt. Taking the accessories off the front of my motor, and adding the same Vortec/TBI setup Scott did will keep the project scope simple, while having a reliable and much more powerful engine.

I did look at the new Vortec 5.3 and LS1's from Turn Key Engine Supply, and found that they were not only more expensive, but had a similar intake system as my old 1996 Vortec, which results in an air filter snout over to fender to get cold air - this was another lesson I learned with Jeep Therapy - this leaves not enough room on the fenderwells for things like On Board Air manifolds, trail side welders, horns, etc. Combined that with the fender-mounted outdoor-rated 1996 Vortec ECU, and space under the hood of Jeep Therapy was at a premium. Additionally, over time, the CPI system of the 86-97 Vortecs were determined to be less than reliable. Learning from my mistakes is costly - both in Jeeps and in divorces - but they're both lessons not quickly forgotten.

I also had concerns on the LS1's all-aluminum construction. Sure, it would be awesome to save the entire weight of my winch with an aluminum engine, but if it was really suitable for a hard working 4x4/truck engine, wouldn't aluminum engines be standard in the Chevy trucks of today, with significant fuel-mileage challenges? (I know, they're probably available on next-year's truck, right?) But they also don't have as much meat in the cylinder liners/walls for a later rebuild & overbore, require premium unleaded, and they require electric cooling fans - an item of project complexity that I'd prefer not to add if possible. Sure, not complex in and of itself, but yet another thing piled on an already big project. K.I.S.S. is ringing in my head.

So the engine decision is the HT383E with a simple EFI system. Talking to the EFI vendor, Affordable Fuel Injection, teaches me that the TPI system is as simple in installation as the TBI system, but with more torque & more fuel mileage. And the new TPI manifolds will work with the super-efficient Vortec heads - everybody wins. (Talking to the EFI guys before deciding on an engine is something else I learned – a very expensive mistake). The K&N cone filter up front is simple & leaves gobs of fender room for other Jeep necessities, and according to the EFI guys, doesn’t rob power. So, unless I learn something else along the way, Vortec/TBI manifold & a simple TBI setup.Thanks, Scott, for the simple elegance of that idea, with a slight updating to TPI compliments of Norm.

The transmission choice is simple: the ultra-low 1st gear NV4500 from Jeep Therapy. If after 15 years I decide I don’t want a stick anymore, converting to automatic is simple enough, and you can find 4-spd automatics built from a number of sources. NV4500’s are far less easy to come by, especially the ultra-low ones.

Axles will also come from Jeep Therapy: D44 Front from a Wagoneer, built by Currie with 4.56's & ARB air locker and Currie's signature inner C gusset (after rotating them for proper caster, of course). The D60 rear will also come from Jeep Therapy, built by Tri-County Gear, with 4.56 & ARB also. I have High-Steer Flattop knuckles I'll add before the swap, with the F150 hubs & rotors. Parts Mike is machining the flat-top knuckles as this is written. Step one of Jeep 2.0 has begun!
Right now, both axles are setup in standard Spring-Under-Axle configuration. I hope that won't pose an issue....

Suspension: I'm going to have a long talk with Chris Overacker of CODE 4x4 fame, and prior to that his 2 other shops he started & sold are both well-regarded. I'm thinking I'll ask him to build me a long arm coil-over setup, but I'm open to a Spring Over Axle (SOA) setup in keeping with the simple theme. I'm guessing the SOA will require a new front axle housing & I'd love to use my existing (and fairly expensive) axles. But a new housing and SOA may end up being far cheaper than a custom 4-link, and would definitely be more "CJ-like". Truth be told, I could probably be talked into a nice SUA with custom springs….

Tires: BFG's of course, with Walker Evan beadlock wheels. Probably 35's, although I'm secretly wondering if I could stuff 37's under with a short lift & judicoious fender trimming. (See how I ended up with "Too Much Project" the first time?) Not sure if I should do 15" wheels or 17" wheels though...any thoughts? I like the old-style 15" size, and the resulting taller sidewall for airing down, but I know the 17's allow more options for upgrading brakes if necessary, etc. But I must remember: I'm NOT after a rock buggy - just a capable family Jeep for lots of fun.

And this brings me to the Transfer case: with 35's & 4.56's, and the NV4500 I have some mixed results. 35's would do better with 4.88's or lower (higher numerically). But 4.56's are a little better on the highway, and Jeep 2.0 will be a Daily Driver and, hopefully, be drive-able from Austin TX to Moab towing a small trailer with a motorcycle on it, 2 kids, 2 dogs & 2 adults. So I'm not changing axle gears. So I think the best choice would be a 3-speed Atlas II transfer case. Sure, I know they're on hold pending a redesign to fix cooling issues. But by the time I get this to the point of needing a new transfer case, it should be available again. The longer wheelbase of the Scrambler would negate any additional driveline length.

In keeping with the New Start of Jeep 2.0, I’m going to paint it blue & put a gray interior in it. In keeping with the double-meaning, I'll probably choose 2007 Mustang Blue, patterned after the beloved Mustang I had that was another victim of the tough times I believe I'm now past. Staying the red it is now would save me some time though….